Castillo de Canena olive groves in Jaen
This is a feature which I have decided to revive in this very difficult time for buying half-way decent olive oil without breaking the bank. I am starting with my local supermarket which happens to be Waitrose. I cannot taste all the oils on the shelf so am using my previous experience of the oils on sale to try and suss out oils which might fit the bill.
The price hikes in this already quite pricey commodity have been eye-watering. The brand leader, Filipo Berio are now offering their extra virgin oil for a massive £10.15 a half litre. Branded oils and to some extent supermarket own label oils with no specific origin have not been my favourite choices and at this sort of price they are definitely not on the list. Many premium oils have also had to increase prices by three or four pounds.
Priced at £7.00 plus
Looking at the current range of prices I decided to taste two oils at around £7,00 and two oils from similar regions at around £13.00. The first pair was a Waitrose own label Greek oil, price £7.75, and Yannis Greek oil from Odysea, price £13.50. The Waitrose oil offered a very light but quite pleasant aroma of apples and general greenery. However in the mouth it was again very bland and not really as one might expect from Greece. Often a sign of an oil that is tiring. A look at the back label gave the explanation. The use by date was December 2024. This indicates that it was not an oil from the current 2023 season but the previous 2022 season. The moral here is to look at the use by date before going any further.
In contrast the Yannis oil was giving a use by date of June 2025. The difference was immediate. This oil has a not dissimilar aroma to the Waitrose oil but much stronger with a quite sweet, nutty character. In the mouth the flavours, too, were more pronounced with a touch of bitterness and some gentle pepper. A much more interesting oil altogether.
Priced at £13 plus
The Waitrose own label organic Spanish oil in my second pair faired rather better than the Greek oil. It is full of soft fruit with a touch of tropical pineapple and melon mixed with apples and a touch of greenery. In the mouth it is similar but with some added nutty tones and balanced pepper. In the current climate it is something a bargain at £7.95. The use by date is April 2025.
The fourth oil is a little bit of a cheat as, though priced at £13.99, it had been discounted from a rather more expensive £15plus. However, it shows that it is worth looking for bargains among the usually more expensive oils. Nothing wrong with the oil, just a promotional come-on. In fact, this Castillo de Canena Picual oil from Jaen in Andalucia is one of the best oils on sale in Waitrose at any time. It was deeply herbaceous with mixed salad leaves and a touch of tomatoes on the vine, particularly on the lovely long after taste. Medium strength bitterness and pepper are extremely well balanced with the fruit giving a really enjoyable taste experience. Coming from a multi-award winning family estate it has a use by date of March 2026 and I, for one, think it will certainly last the course.